Maine 2021 Cruising Newsletter, Issue # 7, August 15
The purpose of this newsletter is to share current information about cruising in Maine that is not readily found in sailing guides and other sources. Please send inputs as well as suggestions for improving to email@example.com.
There is plenty of CCA boat activity on our region – about 25 boats active and up on AIS. There are also lots of new updates in this letter. THANK YOU!! With a special thanks to First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) from the New York Station for the exceptional update they sent in.
We separated the Mid-Coast from Penobscot Bay/Mount Desert Isle due to the large amount of information we are accumulating.
We have shifted to updating every 2 weeks.
Personal note: Bev & I have shifted from Etoile to our new addition “Friendship 4”. We hope to see you out there!
COVID-19 update from the Fleet Surgeon:
Given the current surge in Covid 19 cases with the Delta variant I thought it would be worthwhile to offer an update to our members. As I am sure you are aware, we are seeing a surge in cases globally and nationwide. In New England, my cruising home, there have been worrisome outbreaks on Cape Cod and the Islands which have already resulted in cancelled activities by some yacht clubs due to concern over spread of the Delta variant.
The Delta variant is much more virulent than anything we have seen to date and is of great concern to the CDC. It is currently the predominant variant in the USA. This is due to the fact that it is extremely efficient with regards to infecting individuals. It has been reported that 98-99% of Delta Variant deaths are in the unvaccinated but it is clear that fully vaccinated individuals are susceptible to the variant as well. “Break-through” infections occurring in fully vaccinated individuals are being identified in greater numbers. Asymptomatic individuals can carry this variant as well.
The good news is that fully vaccinated individuals are less likely to become infected and appear to be protected against the worst outcomes of infection, death and severe illness. The bad news is that vaccinated individuals can transmit this variant and may also experience persistent symptoms, referred to as “long covid”.
In short, sadly this pandemic is far from over and in response to the surge with this new variant, the CDC on July 27, 2021 recommended that people vaccinated against Covid 19 resume wearing masks in public indoor spaces. Given what is currently known about this variant, I strongly recommend that we go back to wearing masks when in public indoor spaces, in any crowded setting as well as smaller gatherings of individuals and encourage any unvaccinated individuals to seek vaccination ASAP to help put an end to this pandemic. The CCA as an organization endorses a culture of safety and as such more than ever, we need to continue to do our part to keep ourselves and each other safe.
On June 10, 2021 Gulf of Maine Post Captain, Dale Bruce sent out a “Fenders Over the Side” announcement which I would like to share with everyone as good sound advice.
“This summer is feeling hopeful, and we’re planning to have a few Gams along the Maine Coast. That said, they will be different than our past “Fenders Over the Side” events.”
Many of us are vaccinated, but not all … and certainly most children are not.
When we gather in a harbor, some members may feel comfortable rafting with another boat, but others may not. Some may feel comfortable gathering, at a distance. Others may feel more comfortable with simple dinghy visits.
We are encouraging our members to gather in harbors and visit in whatever manner they feel good about. We all have opinions on these matters so please keep in mind that it’s important to respect each other as we all learn new ‘norms’.”
Unfortunately, the current situation warrants further consideration as we plan future events. This a dynamic situation so we will all need to keep a close eye on the course of this surge.
Jeffrey S. Wisch, M.D.
Fleet Surgeon CCA
Fuel (no updates to this for several weeks):
- SafeHarbors Great Island Marina is $3.84 with a 40 cents per gallon discount for SafeHarbors Black Card holders. Non-ethanol gas.
- Jouney’s End Marina (Rockland): diesel $3.15
- Billings Marine (Stonington): diesel $3.10 and non-ethanol gas
- Hinckley Dock (Southwest Harbor): $3.55 VHF CH 10
- Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina (Southwest Harbor): diesel $3.04 (draft constrained at low tide) VHF CH 9
- Beal’s Lobster Dock (Southwest Harbor): non-ethanol gas
- Clifton Dock (Northeast Harbor): diesel $3.36, non-ethanol gas
Photo(s) of the week: We encourage you to send one photo each week you are cruising in Maine to Charles Starke who will put them together for the newsletter. Charles’s email is firstname.lastname@example.org
from Maple Juice Cove. We call it “Ronna’s World”. Mike and Ronna Benjamin - SV Exodus
A sunset at Warren State Park near Islesboro. Note the trawlers name Bob Rubadeau
Fog in Center Harbor - Zdenka Griswold
More Fog in Center Harbor Zdenka Griswold
Dog Star and Steve Smith's 97 year old Dyon in Tenants Harbor. Bob Rubadeau
Bass Harbor Light at MDI. - Zdenka Griswold
Bluewater (Milt & Judy Baker’s boat) headed from Somes Sound to Southwest Harbor. Photo by Capt. Andrea Gaines, captain of M.Y. Spirit of Zopilote, owned by Bruce and Joan Kessler (FL).
Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens Troll. Zdenka G
Cliff Island. Zdenka
Cliff Island - Zdenka
Fenders over the side: Note the change in date & location! FRIDAY, August 20th. Holbrook Island (near Castine). 1600 – 1900
This Island is part of the Holbrook Preserve, south of Castine. We’re planning to meet on the ISLAND – not the mainland. Holbrook has plenty of anchoring room and is a well-protected harbor. There is a dinghy dock, several pretty trails, and areas for us to gather at a reasonable distance. There is a nice open field near the barn. (Click HERE for map and more details of the island)
I [Post Captain Dale Bruce] am no longer comfortable with our members gathering in each other’s cockpits. With the Covid variants spreading, I feel it’s too many people in too tight a space. Please see the note from the Fleet Surgeon in this newsletter.
These events are self-organizing and are good opportunities for you to invite friends to join us if you think they might be interested in CCA membership. Invite them to come along, on your boat, or their own. Please just show up and visit with other CCA members as you wish. Be sure to put a CCA flag up!
Next GMP “Fenders Over the Side”: September 11. Location TBD soon!! 1600 - 1900
Tips, Reports, and Information from CCA members
Listed by Maine regions from west to east
(new entries since the previous letter are in blue & updates this season are dated)
South Coast / Casco Bay
- Richmond Island: Vivaldi (Gian Luca Fion) recommends Richmond Island for a stopping point between Portland and points south. Richmond Island is located “just around the corner” from Cape Elizabeth. A breakwater connects the middle of the island to the shore and you can anchor on either side depending on the wind direction.
- Quahog Bay: Sunflower (Mark & Bev Lenci) reports
- (updated 7/4) Free CCA guest mooring: Orrs Cove, adjacent to Snow Island in Quahog Bay, CCA Guest Mooring #1668 available. Andy Devereaux m/v TEN. Contact Steve Rowe Ch 9 or (207) 729-1639 (CCA Member and GM of Safe Harbor Marine at Great Harbor Boat Yard) for availability and dinghy dock location.
- (updated 7/4) Guest moorings are available for $35/night at Great Island Boatyard CCA member Steve Rowe (CCA member) is the GM. Full services.
- (updated 6/26) The “Craft Kitchen and Provisions” is a small restaurant at Great Island Boatyard and is excellent! You can order take out or dine outside. They will also prepare meals for you as provisions. Almost everything is made on premise. They are open from 10 AM to 6 PM Thursday through Monday. Call 207-406-4333.
- (updated 6/26) SafeHarbors Great Island Marina has single stream recycling.
- (updated 7/18) Solution (Carter & Peggy Bacon) report The anchorage at Will’s Gut, east side of the crib stone bridge, is often reported as well protected in southerly winds, as it is, and it is a lovely, quiet spot, with plenty of room to anchor in 10-15 feet. However, with a 12kn SW breeze, we experienced more rolling than we would have liked at our anchorage well into the harbor.
- (updated 6/26) Small Point Harbor (Cape Small Harbor) Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk) and John Chandler report:
Overview: Often passed by, this tight, well-protected and largely undeveloped anchorage offers boats passing east or west a convenient stopping-off point on the east side of Casco Bay without having to head farther up the New Meadows River. Once inside, it’s a lovely, quiet place, usually with several guest moorings available. CCA members John and Peter Chandler and Buell Heminway keep their boats here and are always happy to welcome Club members. Small Point is also home to the Small Point One Design, designed in the late 1930s by Starling Burgess, now a fleet of 33 boats, which are lovingly maintained by summer residents and actively raced every summer.
Boats up to 45’ and 6’ draft can lie comfortably here. It’s possible for larger boats but can be a bit cozy. Anyone thinking of coming in should contact John Chandler at email@example.com or (207) 389-2228, or Peter Chandler at firstname.lastname@example.org or (207) 232-7051 for information. If we’re around, we can show you up the channel.
Approach and Cautions: The channel at the north end of the harbor can be daunting to the first-timer but, once past the mud flats, access is easy right up the center of the channel to the mooring field at the south end. The Taft/Rindlaub guide has a good discussion and useful chartlet of the approach, and the channel can also be seen in the accompanying aerial picture. Although you can carry a 4.5’ draft through the north end at low water, entrance is best attempted at half-tide or better and doing so on a rising tide gives peace of mind.
(updated 7/18) Docking, Anchorages, or Moorings: Once into the inner harbor, you will pass the Hermit Island lobster wharf on the west side and lobstermen’s pier on the east side. Next on the east side is a long float for the use of the summer community and then two private docks, the second of which belongs to the Chandler family. Just past the Chandler dock in mid-channel are several moorings, one or more of which is usually available for a visitor. Pick up #501 or #522, each marked with a small CCA burgee on the whip staff and both of which are heavy chain and rope fastened to 3,000+# granite blocks. #560 is also often available. Others may be free but should not be taken without invitation of the owner. Because of the recent proliferation of small motor boats moored in the harbor, anchoring can be tricky but is possible in the channel south of the mooring field.
Hikes and Getting Ashore: There is a small store at the extreme south end of the harbor maintained by the Hermit Island Campground. It can be reached by dinghy at the top of the tide. Otherwise, go ashore at the campground float southwest of the mooring field and follow the road along the west side of the harbor.
For those wishing a longer (+ 3 miles out and back) hike, we recommend a hike up Morse Mountain, belonging to the St. John family and maintained by the Bates-Morse Mountain Conservancy. Land at the Chandler dock and turn right on Sprague Road, following it out to Route 216. Turn left on Rte. 216, then right on Morse Mountain Road and follow the road across the marsh up the hill. The view from the top is spectacular and well worth the effort. The most intrepid can continue on past the top to the end of the road, which comes out on Seawall Beach, the last major undeveloped white sand beach as one goes east along the Maine coast.
(updated 7/18) Other Things To Do: The Lobster House Restaurant is open Wednesday-Sunday, 5:00-9:00. Reservations are encouraged at (207) 389-1590. It’s an easy walk from the Chandler dock – turn right on Sprague Road, then right again on Route 209.
- Casco Bay Restaurants: Libra (Caroline and Barney Baker) have provided the following list of restaurants in Casco Bay:
- Saltwater Grille, 231 Front Street, South Portland. Saltwater Grille welcomes boaters with a private dock and a large deck offering panoramic views of Portland’s city skyline. The menu includes plenty of locally caught fish and seafood, steaks, and owner Mark Loring’s signature pizza—lobster, grilled corn salsa, and basil.
- Diamond Cove:
- Diamond’s Edge Restaurant, Diamond Cove, Portland. On the grounds of historic Fort McKinley, Diamond’s Edge Restaurant and Marina gives boaters the chance to escape the hustle of Portland for a relaxed island setting. The lawn overlooking the cove is a popular spot to enjoy a meal and a glass of wine.
- (updated 7/18) The editor of Maine Magazine wrote: A couple of weekends ago was something special. My wife and I dropped our puppy off at doggie daycare and caught the 2 p.m. ferry from Portland to Diamond Cove for an afternoon reservation at Crown Jewel. The ferry ride makes dining at the Great Diamond Island restaurant what marketers call An Experience, but in this case all of the adulation is appropriate. The neon pink decor is fun (and incredibly Instagrammable), and the food is impeccable. Best of all, for a restaurant that requires additional effort to visit, nothing seems to take itself too seriously, including our piña colada shaved ice for dessert.
- (updated 7/18) Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) confirm the Crown Jewel is a “must”. 207-766-3000: open for lunch and dinner. The restaurant has a mooring and slips (both for up to about 42’ LOA) which can be reserved along with your meal. Also accessible by ferry and water taxi from Portland. The food is fabulous - do not miss!
- North 43 Bistro, 1 Spring Point Dr., South Portland. Overlooking Port Harbor Marina, North 43 Bistro has decks on two levels and a contemporary feel. Chef Stephanie Brown’s sophisticated yet soulful menu changes every three weeks and has more varied choices than most waterside restaurants.
- Crown Jewel - Dale Bruce reports that this is a restaurant on Great Diamond Island in Casco Bay now offering boat side delivery. 207-766-3000
- Dockside Grill, 214 Foreside Rd, Falmouth.
- Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster, 36 Main St, South Freeport. Cozy coastal vibes fill this seasonal, seaside pier in a working harbor. With bright red picnic tables, a lobster pound, and a classic Maine menu, the restaurant provides a real taste of local character.
- Royal River Grill House, 106 Lafayette St, Yarmouth. This stylish waterfront restaurant boasts a large deck with heaters, firepits, and a harbor view, with a slip available for boaters at Yankee Marina just next door. The lively bar is a popular gathering spot for locals, and the large menu offers something for everyone.
- (updated 7/4) Gunsmoke (Larry and Alane Hall) reports The Chebeague Island Inn is OPEN. chebeagueislandinn.com With guest moorings, launch service and a 9 hole cow pasture golf course. Floats next to the ferry dock are available for smaller craft as available. Deposit the fee in the metal box at the top of the ramp. Check out the website.
- Trinket (Jim and Ruth Harvie) report: On the ocean side of Chebeague is the boat yard with a place you can get wine/sandwiches and there’s a beach: http://chebeagueislandboatyard.com/the-niblic/
- (updated 7/11) The Dolphin, 515 Basin Point Road, Harpswell. On the edge of Potts Harbor, the Dolphin has its own marina and a deck with sweeping views of the Casco Bay islands. Known for its traditional Maine fare served with blueberry muffins, the restaurant has been a local favorite since 1966. Wassail (Nick & Phyllis Orem) report that the Dolphin still brings muffins and hot coffee in the morning to boats on their moorings as they have been doing for years.
- Erica’s (like a dairy queen for fish and lobster - low key) and working lobsterman’s dock you can tie up. Colorfull! Sunflower (Mark & Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, & Nancy Cook) report that Erica’s is GREAT!! FIVE STARS!! The seafood chowder is among the best they have ever had. The price for lobster is the best in the area. The lobster rolls are great too! 505 Basin Point Rd, Harpswell, ME 04079 (just before The Dolphin)
- Morse’s Cribstone Grill, Bailey Island (Ocean side) Great little low key place with great menu and all seats have views. You can get lunch or dinner there and they sell lobster to take home. They have dock to tie up to too. https://www.morsescribstonegrill.net/ You sneak under the Cribstone bridge between Orrs Island and Bailey island to get there or you can run along the oceanside shore of Bailey’s .
- Cooks Lobster: Indoor seating: other side of cribstone bridge from Morse’s You might be able to arrange a mooring at Orrs/Bailey island YC.
- Cundy’s harbor) Dock and good seafood eating out on the pier. https://www.holbrookwharf.com/
- Anna’s Waters Edge Restaurant- Haven’t been here yet but it is on my list! Looks great and unpolished. Address: 75 Blacks Landing Rd, Phippsburg, ME 04562 Phone: (207) 389-1803
- Sebasco Lodge: (more polished) updated by Allegro (Buell & Anne Heminway): 29 Kenyon Rd, (877) 420-1701 Oceanfront resort hotel. Dining on the terrace under a tent and indoors in the tavern. Very limited seating. Launch service. Golf course & a harborside pool.
- (added 8/15) Bath Friendship 4 (Mark & Bev Lenci) report: The Maine Maritime Museum has transient mooring for $35/night. The price includes admission for all aboard to the Maine Maritime Museum (value: $18 per adult). Call
- Five Islands (Sheepscott River) Wassail (Nick & Phyllis Orem) & Bonnie Rye (Chace & Josie Anderson) report the lobster dock (Five Islands Lobster Co. (closed Wednesday), https://fiveislandslobster.com/, ice cream stand, & general store are open. Five Islands Farm is a nice store up the hill and has good wines, cheeses, & vegetables but is closing on July 18 for the remainder of the summer. They stayed on two Five Island Yacht Club moorings. Due to large lobster boats moored, take a mooring further out.
- (added 8/15) Riggs Cove (Sheepscott River/Robinhood) Scattergood (Scott & Pamela Teas) recommend the Osprey restaurant. It has new ownership, fine dining, reasonably priced, great view over Riggs Cove, The Knubble, to the east.
- Oven Mouth (Cross River) Wassail (Nick & Phyllis Orem) & Bonnie Rye (Chace & Josie Anderson) report they spent several days here and it was virtually empty.
- Squirrel Island: Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk, Ann Noble Kiley) report: Just outside Booth Bay, Squirrel has a reputation for hospitality to yachts. However, this year, due to COVID, the island is open only to residents, not even guests
- (updated 7/18) Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) report “Taka” is a great place for lunch. Good food and service, plus a deck with nice water views.
- Bonnie Rye (Chace & Josie Anderson) report that they found a person who can drive and do shopping. Contact Rob Leavitt, Phone: 207-350-3248, and email grocery needs: email@example.com Guest mooring at the Boothbay Yacht Club are available with launch service. The dining room is take out only.
- (updated 7/18) Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) report the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens - Now home to five huge trolls, is well worth a visit. The gardens may be accessed by taxi from Boothbay Harbor - Wheeler’s Taxi, 207-350-9983 - or a very long, not particularly attractive walk. Alternate access is from the Sheepscot River: anchor in a cove north of Sawyer and Hodgdon islands, just before a low bridge, and dinghy around to Knickerbocker town landing just before another low bridge; from there the entrance to the Gardens is about a 20-minute walk along the road. Timed entry tickets must be purchased in advance.
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- The former Rocktide Inn/restaurant has been sold and totally refurbished, now named the Boothbay Harbor Oceanside Golf Resort, 35 Atlantic Avenue, associated with a new golf course in town, with plenty of pleasant outside seating on the harbor, and much fancier food, service and prices (reservations)
- Boathouse Bistro in town on three levels across from where there used to be a bowling alley has very good tapas (no reservations); their sister restaurants are Mine Oyster and Taka on the water, and they seem to alternate dates closed to share staff.
- Ports of Italy in town has excellent Italian food (reservations)
- If you are staying on the “quiet”/east side of the harbor, it’s a nice walk to the Spruce Point Inn for lunch; dinner also possible but car or cab preferable at night, it’s a pretty dark road with limited shoulders (about a mile from Carousel Marina).
- The Whale’s Tale Restaurant at Carousel Marina, also on the east side of the harbor with great harbor/sunset views, has not been open much this year, owner Jack Cosgrove reports he just can’t get enough help to operate satisfactorily. Note: Carousel Marina has dock space, moorings, fuel and a car you can borrow for grocery runs to the Hannafords about a mile from the marina.
- Brown’s Marina next door to Carousel has dock space and moorings but its restaurant is closed for the second year in a row. So no “lobster dinner wars” between Brown’s and Carousel this year.
- Linekin Bay: Wischbone (Jeff & Cindy Wisch) report that the Linekin Bay Resort has moorings available for rent and guest wifi that reaches the moorings. Additionally, the northwest corner of Linikin Bay has excellent holding ground for anchoring and is well protected.
- Christmas Cove: Nancy Snow (Bruce and Linda MacNeil) recommend the Coveside Restaurant and Marina in South Bristol, Maine. 207-644-8282 The restaurant overhangs Christmas Cove and has a fabulous menu with lots of seafood, shellfish and beef. They have 7 moorings and overnight slips in the marina, all on Dockwa. Currently they will be open Thursday through Sunday from 11:30 till 9:00 pm. There is inside dining, outside dining and takeout delivered to the docks. www.covesiderestaurant.com
- South Bristol: Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk, Ann Noble Kiley) report that The COOP on the east side of the bridge is open for fuel and water and courteous to yachts although quite busy with lobster boats. Diesel was well under $2/gal.
- Damariscotta River:
- Five miles up the river there is a small, full-service boatyard, Gamage Shipyard. They have diesel and gasoline available on their face dock 7 days per week. 207-644-8181.
- Exodus (Mike and Ronna Benjamin) visited the Glidden Point Oyster Farm, way up the Damariscotta River for the best oysters we’ve had in Maine. Their deal is that you sit outside on picnic tables and shuck your own with their tools and instructions. They serve 4 sizes and all the fix-ins in large round metal trays, as well as wine and beer. We were not allowed to tie to their dock but through the kindness of CCA member Eric Crawford, we used his dock (which is next to his mooring CCA-235) and walked about a mile down the road to the restaurant. Lots of fun! On route there is also a fish market with lobsters and other local fish. We highly recommend a visit. Here is the link: https://www.gliddenpoint.com/
- (updated 7/18) Wassail (Nick & Phyllis Orem) report: we dropped anchor near the dock for the Dodge Point Preserve https://www.coastalrivers.org/preserves-trails/dodge-point/ and came ashore for a very pleasant 4.5 mile hike on the well marked trails in the preserve. Pets (on leash) are welcome, there’s a public dinghy dock, and the trails lead to several small beaches. CCA mooring #235 is close by (in use when we were there). Seal Cove is 5 miles downriver and a very nice place to anchor for the night.
- (updated 6/26) Harbor and Hall islands (43º55'N 069º23'W) Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk) reports these are two adjacent islands that form a nice harbor in Muscongus Bay. They are a good anchorage in any wind other than north. The two rocks on either side of the entrance should be respected but it is otherwise wide and easy. We anchored on the east (Hall Island) side just south of the lobsterman's house and north of the north end of the ledge that extends north into the harbor in 15 feet at low, excellent holding, peaceful night.
- (new 8/15) Muscongus Cove: Juanona (Max Fletcher & Lynnie Bruce) report: Muscongus Cove is located 1.5 NM north of Round Pond. In 2020 the family of the late, long-time CCA member Gerry Merser established a CCA guest mooring in his memory. It is a white ball with several CCA burgees and “Guest” on it. They were delighted to have us stop by, and very much hope other CCA members will make use of the mooring. Guests are welcome to tie their dinghy at their dock for a beautiful coastal walk along the Back Shore Road. You’ll end up in Round Pond where shops and provisions can be found. Alison and Darrin Moore can show you the path out their driveway, and they plan to mark the way in case they are away.
- Hog Island: Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook) stopped here to visit the Audubon preserve with hiking trails on the island. There are two first come first serve moorings in the small cove in front of the Audubon building & dock on the island (in the area of the underwater cables shown on your chart – do not anchor). Best to get there early. The facilities manager is Eric Snyder (firstname.lastname@example.org)
- (updated 7/7) Broad Cove Marine Services: Homarus (Blair & Sherry Pyne ) own Broad Cove Marine located north of Hog Island. Blair reports that they have outdoor dining and fuel, gas, ice and water. Broadcovemarine.com is the web site. Blair is a former GMP post captain.
- Maplejuice Cove: Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook) discovered that the Olson House, home of Christina Olson and the venue for the most famous Andrew Wyeth painting, is closed for renovation. It’s a short walk from Cushing Cove and well worth it for the view. We purchased lobsters from one of the boats that was offloading their catch at Cushing Cove (the lobster boat harbor in the NE corner of Maplejuice Cove).
Penobscot Bay to Mt. Desert Isle
- (updated 7/11) Tenant’s Harbor: PrimeTime (Ed Freitag and Molly Haley) report:
- Moorings are available from the Tenants Harbor Boatyard. Phone is 207 372-8063. Email is info@Tenantsharborboatyard.com. Boatyard has gas and diesel. Cod End moorings are available in the harbor as well — they are yellowish lobster buoys. There are also some moorings rented by Tripp that are further in.
- Quarry Tavern at East Wind Inn is open Thursday through Monday for dinner, 5 to 9.
- Breakfast 7 days a week in the East Wind Inn.
- Happy Clam is open.
- Lukes/Cod End is still closed, reportedly permanently.
- (updated 7/4) Long Cove: Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook) report that there is heavy sea grass on the bottom throughout most of the cove. They used their sonar to find a couple small grass free spots that anchor would readily set in. Recommend a fisherman’s anchor if you don’t have a sonar. Charles Starke has a mooring here, on the CCA mooring list.
- Dix Island: Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk, Ann Noble Kiley) report that Dix offers an attractive anchorage and the island remains open for walks ashore although restricted to a well-marked and mowed path that circumnavigates the island, about half an hour. Half a dozen boats at anchor mid-week. We saw no one ashore during our walk.
- McLoon’s Lobster Shack Tag (Nancy Cook) reports that this is off the beaten path but has the best lobster rolls she has ever had!! Now that’s saying something! McLoon’s is 315 Island Road in Thomaston, ME. This is on Spruce Island (can be reached by car) near Muscle Shoals Channel. You can reach it by boat and dinghy ashore. Worth the stop.
- (updated 7/11) Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev Lenci) report that SafeHarbors Yachting Solutions marina how has 20 mooring available for rental.
- Passport (Ann Noble-Kiley) has one mooring that is often available. Call her at 617-817-1308.
- Wischbone (Jeff & Cindy Wisch) reports from the harbormaster that docks and moorings are in. 207-594-0312 There is a Farmer’s Market on Thursday’s from 0900 – 1300 in the field adjacent to the town dock.
- Visions of Johanna (Bill Strassberg) reports the Grasshopper Shop downtown on Main Street has great boater friendly items such as Melamine dishware, plastic cups and glasses, placemats, Stonewall Kitchen condiments, jams, mustards.
- Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) reports on the following restaurants:
- Archers on the Pier- easy walk from the town dinghy dock. They have a deck and inside seating spaced out. No reservations but will move you up the list if you let them know you are coming soon. Big menu.
- (updated 7/18) Park St. Grille — seating inside spaced and outside they have about 5 or 6 tables. No reservations. Big menu good Mexican food and margaritas! Walk up the hill from the town dinghy dock and turn right on Main St and go 2 blocks. Wings (JP & Kaki Smith) report the restaurant has moved into the Lighthouse Museum. The crew of Etoile can confirm the food is good and the price is reasonable.
- Cafe Rustica- takes reservations for seatings 5pm, 6:30pm, 8pm. Spaced out seating. Smaller menu but good food. Walk up from town dinghy dock, turn right on Main St. and go 3 or 4 blocks.
- McLoons- in Sprucehead near Owlshead open 11:30-7pm closed tues and weds. You can anchor in the harbor, dinghy dock walk to it. It is on a rise by the water. Lobster shack style good food. Eat outside picnic tables
- Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) report on the following stores:
- Hannafords is in the north part of the harbor. Joe’s Taxi is out of business but try Schooner Bay Taxi 207-594-5000 (they also do Camden) wear a mask and don’t bring your cloth bags. They won’t let you bring them into the store. They are limiting the number of people inside but I have never had to wait. It is well stocked.
- Main St Market is small but has organic things and a place to get salads and sandwiches and take out hot things. From the town dock, go up the hill turn right and walk 6 blocks. 207-594-8515
- (updated 7/11) Wiggins Meat Market 207-594-1118. 148 N Main St. has a great selection of vacuum-packed meats and fish and pastas. They require phone ahead orders. They are on Main street south. Take your dinghy to the dinghy dock/boat ramp at Snow Park in the south of town and walk down Mechanic St to your left till you hit Main and turn right. The market is on your left a ways up Main. You can also come at it from the Town dock and walk south on Main St
- Jess’s Seafood Market 207-596-6068 118 S. Main St. is south of Wiggins so closer to Snow Park area.
- Wassail (Nick & Phyllis Orem) report:
- The Mobil 1 Lube Express on Route 1 just a little way past the turn for Hannafords will refill propane canisters of any size.
- Anybody who likes BBQ will want to visit the outdoor BBQ across from the Landings Marina parking lot. They’re open Thursday to Saturday from 11am until they sell out.
- (updated 7/18) Rockport:
- Solution (Carter & Peggy Bacon) report Market Basket is closed permanently.
- Doug Bruce suggests: Graffam Bros. Seafood Market https://www.graffambroslobster.com/ has excellent fresh fish and lobster available in their permanent building at 211 Union Street in Rockport, a short walk (towards Camden) uphill from the Rockport waterfront. Across the street, Graffam operates a food truck serving lobster and crab rolls, plus other items. They have several picnic tables outside and are considered a friendly place with good eats by locals in the know.
- (updated 6/26) Charles Starke reports: Propane was available in Camden at P G Wiley which is across from Wayfarer and easy to reach with your tank by Wayfarer launch. Perhaps the easiest propane fill available! Downeast Diesel telephone is 207-244-5145
- Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) reports there is a farmer’s market at 116 Washington Street, 9 – 12 Saturday. Walk from the town dock.
- (updated 7/11) From Dale Bruce:
- Camden Town docks welcome transient boats. Harbor master: Steve Pixley - Monitors VHF Ch. 16 or Phone: 207-236-7969 Docking fees: $2.50 ft per night for under 40’ - $4 ft per night for 40’ to 70’ - $6.50 ft per night for over 70’. Power: 30amp - $15 night, 50 amp - $30 night. There is water on the dock, but supply your own hose. Pump out boat is available & can come to you at anchor or mooring. Call dockmaster to arrange – 236-7969 or VHF Ch 16. Restrooms on the public landing are open.
- (updated 7/25) Lyman Morse Dog Star (Bob & Mary Rubadeau) (Dockmaster: Charlie Foote 207-236-7108 Moorings: $45 night Inner harbor float: $60 night (42’ maximum) Dock: $3 per ft per night up to 59’ length, $4.25 ft per night for 60’-99’ length. Launch service included for those on moorings or inner harbor floats. There is water available on the docks and the fuel dock. LM is undergoing a major rebuild after last year’s fire – all yard services available except laundry. Showers are available in a spiffy trailer and are more than adequate. Also LM makes a courtesy car available to get you around. Two hours and you sign up at the Dock Office. Great way to get provisions. Hours: M-F 7am-8:30pm. Weekends 8am-8:30pm. Pump out service must be arranged thru the Harbor Master (see Camden info above). Laundry pick-up and delivery can be arranged through Camden Clothesline, 207-230-1166. Dog Star is presently at Camden and had an update on the offerings at LymanMorris..
- (updated 7/4) Camden Yacht Club Tango (Galen & Susan Todd) reports: Visiting yachts are welcomed. Please contact the Dock office at 207-236-3014, via VHF 68, or email@example.com Moorings available for $40 night. Inner harbor floats $50 night (42’ maximum length) and includes launch service. Launch hours are from 8:15am to 7:45pm during summer season. Reduced hours in June and September. Visiting dinghies should tie up on SE end of outer float, not behind the main dock.
- Groceries: French and Brawn (1 Elm Street) is one block from the public landing in Camden and offers most everything you may need. Deli, fish & meat departments as well as most groceries and produce. Delivery to Public landing offered. 207-236-3361 or firstname.lastname@example.org If requested ahead, they will package and freeze items for you.
- The Waterfront Restaurant – 48 Bayview Street On the water, nice deck overlooking the harbor. Closed Tuesdays. Lunch 11:30-2:30; light fare 2:30- 4:30; dinner 5-8pm
- Peter Otts — 16 Bayview Landing – right on the harbor. Leashed dogs welcome on their deck. Open Wednesday–Sunday 11:30-9pm.
- Camden Deli — 37 Main Street. Nice upstairs deck and a great spot for breakfast or lunch.
- Hartstone Inn – 41 Elm Street. Upscale, lovely restaurant open Wednesday-Sunday. Menu changes daily-see it online. An easy walk from the public landing.
- Franny’s Bistro – 55 Chestnut Street. Inside and outside seating. Open Wednesday-Saturday 5-9pm
- 40 Paper – 40 Washington Street – Upscale Italian with Gluten Free options. An easy walk from the public landing. Right under the smokestack. Open 4-9. Closed Sunday.
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- Delvino’s restaurant in town is good, very popular (reservations)
- Darby’s restaurant is also fine (reservations)
- Rollie’s (opens at 1500, closed Mon and Tues) is a great local spot for easy food or an inexpensive beer or glass of wine, particularly at happy hour.
- for dockage, in addition to the town docks and Front Street Shipyard, “Belfast Marina” at 15 Front Street, just outside the larger dinghy dock, has expanded with two sets of floats and offers transient space.
- Wischbone reports that the harbormaster says moorings are available but there are a limited number and reservations are accepted. Skye (Glen Porter) reports they have rented moorings from Kathy the harbormaster 207-276-5737
- Visions of Johanna (Bill Strassberg) reports that the Belfast COOP is one of the safest in store shopping experiences he has had. It is a short walk from the harbor, and they will do on-line orders with curbside pick-up if desired. See https://belfast.coop/shop-for-me/ Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) report that you walk up Main Street from the dinghy dock and turn left on High St and walk a block and look left. Lots of fresh vegetables, organic products, lunch area for good sandwiches, etc. to eat in or take out.
- Visions of Johanna (Bill Strassberg) reports Darby’s Restaurant, The Neighborhood and Meanwhile Restaurant have outside dining.
- Sunflower (Mark & Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook) report:
- There is an excellent farmer’s market on Saturday from 9 to 2 on Spring Street. All kinds of food and crafts.
- There is a very nice hiking trail along an old rail line. It begins where Front Street Shipyard ends and goes along the river. It has distance & historical marking all along it.
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- North Haven:
- Pulpit Harbor:
- Sweet Dreams (Maggie Salter/Alan Hickey), and updated by Hearts Desire (Dan & Joan Amory) report North Haven Grocery is an easy walk, ½ mile, from the harbor. Open 6 AM to 7 PM daily. For smaller orders call 207-867-2233. For larger orders email Nhgrocery2019@gmail.com) Restocked Monday and Friday afternoons.
- Pulpit Harbor: Sweet Dreams (Maggie Salter/Alan Hickey) report they buy lobsters from April Brown 207-542-3894/207-867-2209. She will also cook them for you.
- (updated 7/11) Hearts Desire (Dan & Joan Amory) report: New addition to The North Haven Gift Shop & Hopkins Wharf Gallery is the Market underneath the Gift Shop. The Market has basic provisions a boat might want& others it would wish for, including fresh produce. Also something refreshing to grab on the way to the ferry. All 3 located on Hopkins Wharf between the ferry landing & the North Haven Casino. Hours for all establishments 10-5 seven days a week. One phone number: 867-4444. Town dock & Casino docks on either side.
- (updated 7/11) Hearts Desire (Dan & Joan Amory) report:
- Pulpit Harbor:
- Waterman’s Community Center 867-2100
- Calderwood Hall light fare—& delicious 867-4700
- Ice Cream pop up box store in front
- J O Browns Marine. Lobsters often available
- (updated 7/18) Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) reports Calderwood Hall is open for indoor dining. Great, super popular pizza, but be ready for a long wait - in our case, two hours! 207-867-4700. Menu & order on the website: http://www.calderwoodhall.com/
- Bluebird (Gust Stringos) reports the Nebo Lodge (207-867-2007) has indoor & outdoor dining (dinner?). Food is great and proper safety is observed. Open Tuesday – Saturday.
- Bluebird (Gust Stringos) reports moorings are available from J. O. Brown (Brown’s Boatyard – (207-867-2282)
- Turner Farm: Sweet Dreams (Maggie Salter/Alan Hickey) report Turner Farm is selling take-out food and vegetables. Anchor in Kent Cove. They have a dock you can dinghy to and walk to the barn. See the website for hours and menus. www.Turner-farm.com
- Meridian (Steve Taylor) reports fresh local oysters are available right near the ferry dock at Waterman’s. Freshly harvested, really great.
- (updated 7/11) Vinalhaven: Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) report: Thanks to the work of a very generous volunteer, VLT now offers a free hiking app for smartphones. The "VHtrails" app provides directions to the many preserves and parks on Vinalhaven with hiking trails as well as navigational support when on the trail. VHtrails needs to be installed when connected to the Internet. Just search for "VHtrails" in the App Store (iPhone) or Play Store (Android). No further configuration is required after installation. However, you'll be asked to allow access to the device's location. For the navigation of the app to work as intended, you need to grant that permission.
- Perry Creek (Fox Island Thoroughfare) –
- ConverJence (Bill Bowers) reports that he surveyed the harbor and verified that the 4 foot spot shown to starboard as you enter Perry Creek does NOT exist. The actual depth of water should be 9 to 10 feet.
- (updated 7/11) Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Bev & Mark Lenci) report the moorings in this paragraph are small (9”) white balls with pickups. As you enter the creek they are the first moorings on north side of creek. They are not marked with the names mentioned in this paragraph and appear to have no markings. Members Tom & Jane Babbitt have one that is marked “Bravo”, “CCA OCC”, and has a small CCA burgee on it. (updated 6/26) Wings (JP & Kaki Smith) report: John McLeod, Captain of the power yacht Cloud Dancer, has four moorings in Perry Creek each with a 4000# block that he is happy for CCA members to pick up. The mooring names are Roddy, Lindy, Mary Anne, and Cloud Dancer, and are available on a first come first serve basis. John and Cloud Dancer are usually moored on his mooring marked Cloud Dancer and will steer you to a mooring if you need help....just pop alongside his vessel or hail him on 16. There is no charge for the moorings but John asks that, if you are so inclined, you make a contribution to the Vinalhaven Land Trust. The Trust has preserved property in Perry Creek and maintains trails there and on other of their preserves around the Vinalhaven. Contributions can be mailed to Linnell Mather, Vinalhaven Land Trust, PO Box 268, Vinalhaven, ME 04863
- (updated 7/4) Wings (JP & Kaki Smith) report: The mooring “Sally” is usually available for pick up.
- Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Nancy Cook, Anne Kolker) report that there are great hiking trails up the river from the CCA moorings. CCA members Alan & Catherine Rae on Evening Star provided trail maps from the conservancy.
- (updated 7/18) Winter Harbor (Vinalhaven): Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) have a guest mooring that you may pick up if not in use. it is strong enough for about a 45ft or 50 ft boat. 2000 lb granite block. It has a white ball saying “Windermere guest” and a tallboy. Hen island has a single camp site and no reservation needed. It is fun to circumnavigated Penobscot island in your dinghy at high tide.
- (updated 7/11) Seal Bay (Vinalhaven): Bravo (Tom and Jane Babbitt) report the MDIYC mooring in Seal Bay was inspected and found unsafe. The pendant will be replace sometime.
- (updated 6/26) White Islands - Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk/Ann Noble Kiley) report: As usual a nice overnight, good holding, protected from winds except north or south. A little roll at slack tide, otherwise the boat rides to the current, facing north or south. Nobody else there.
- (updated 6/26) Hurricane Island: Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk/Ann Noble Kiley) report: We found three moorings there. Chewink (Lymans) and Illusion (Honeys) were on two of them. The guest mooring we picked up (southern-most) did not have a pennant so we pulled the ball aboard and put a line on the chain. Ann had a nice walk ashore. In the end, although it was not particularly rough, we found the roll a bit excessive and all three boats moved to alternate overnight anchorages.
- Carver’s Harbor (south end of Vinalhaven Island)
- (updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) reports the Carver’s Harbor Market is quite big and right on the main St in the Harbor .207-863-4319 It is across the street from the dinghy dock. They offer curbside pickup. This is a crowded “working harbor”, almost entirely occupied by lobster boats, The harbor is crowded Finding an available mooring is almost impossible, but there should be room to anchor out in the Reach area and dinghy in. Etoile adds that you can take the ferry from Rockland to Carver’s harbor for a nice day trip. Besides the activities in town, you can easily walk to the Lane’s Island Preserve for scenic, oceanside hike.
- (updated 7/18) Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold)
- Dot & Millie’s, 207-863-2300, dotandmilliesvh.com, is a great new restaurant, open for dinner. Excellent food and service. A real find!
- One honor system rental mooring at the edge of the packed mooring field, first come first serve, very tight quarters.
- Greets Eats, a food truck by the ferry terminal which has excellent lobster rolls (at a mere $15 per roll to boot)
- (updated 7/18) Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold)
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- The Harbormaster office reports the town has two moorings off the town docks, with large white flat-tops, $25/night, first-come, first served; on inspection we noticed one had a pennant, one does not but has a large ring on top for your own. Currents run pretty strong in the mooring area. They will take trash for $2/bag (the large trash bins are locked). Eaton’s also has moorings and limited dock space.
- In addition to great walks on local streets in town, particularly Perkins Street running west from town along the waterfront, Witherle Woods offers several miles of trails just NW of downtown—walk up the hill to Battle Street, turn left (west) and walk about 1/2-3/4 mile past the Maine Maritime Academy, the trails entrance is on the right (north side) with a parking area (see their website for details).
- Former Dennett’s Wharf restaurant on the water has re-opened as Otter’s; the long inside bar is intact.
- Danny Murphy’s pub on the harbor front parking lot opens at 4 p.m. and operates year-round; owner advises Pentagoet Inn and Wine Bar partway up the hill on Main Street is not serving dinner this summer.
- Doug & Dale Bruce report that this is a pretty town to walk in. Lots of historical information on signs.
- Wischbone reports from the harbormaster that town moorings are available 207 266 7711 or Eaton’s Boat Yard 207-326-8579
- Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) report on the Mini Market. 207-326-9920 Walk up the hill to the first intersection and turn left and walk 100 ft. simple small market with deli.
- Doug & Dale Bruce report Markel’s Bakery is open for take out only – Tuesday – Saturday 10 AM to 2 PM for lunch. 207-326-9510 to place your order. Dennett’s Wharf restaurant is permanently closed.
- Starlight (John & Joan de Regt) report Smith Cove, opposite Castine, was a great place to ride out Tropical Storm Isaias.
- Starlight (Joan and John de Reget) report that they bought some meat at the little grocery store in Castine and it was bad when I opened the package. Buyer beware!
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- (new 8/15): Holbrook Island (Castine): Kite (Zdenka & Jack Griswold) One orange guest mooring off the Holbrook Island dock and one or two more on the opposite shore in Tom Cod Cove, near the Holbrook Island Sanctuary dock. Also tons of room to anchor. Extensive trail network, good walking/hiking on the island and throughout the sanctuary. Etoile (Anne Kolker & Ginny Vought) add: A good place to hike but be prepared. There are mosquitoes everywhere on the cool damp trails. Scamper (Joe and Holly McDonough) report “Excellent island to hike around with a dinghy dock, trail map and guest mooring orange ball (44 21’38.3” 68 48’32.0”) Entrance from south of Holbrook Island is easy. Also on the Cape Rosier side is the Holbrook Island Sanctuary with many more hiking opportunities, a dinghy dock and 2 orange ball guest moorings. Large anchorage if moorings are occupied.”
- Buck’s Harbor:
- (updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) reports Buck’s Harbor Marine has reliable moorings, or you can anchor in the outer parts of this peaceful harbor. Water, diesel fuel, and an outdoor shower is available at their dock. Call in on VHF Ch. 9 or 10, or www.bucksharbor.com.
- Windermere (John & Wendy Richards) report on the Buck’s Harbor General Store. 207-236-8683 They are open 8-7, not Sundays. Take your dinghy to the yacht club dock and walk out the driveway to the main road. Look across the street and you will see the General Store. They have market things, a deli, and some pastries. The Buck’s Cafe restaurant behind the store will be open for takeout only for the summer (at this point).
- Skye (Glen Porter & Jean Deighan) report that the Buck’s Harbor Yacht Club has advised members like ourselves that the docks are closed to all but members for this summer;
- Horseshoe Cove (next to Buck’s Harbor): Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Nancy Cook, Anne Kolker) report that they found this to be a great place to tuck away. The boatyard at the head of this bay is “Seal Cove Boatyard”. Call for a mooring 207-326-4422 (we very strongly recommend you do not try an anchor – it is very tight). Be very careful with the narrow passage between the rocks just before the mooring field. We enjoyed a dinghy trip up the bay through two “reversing falls”. The boatyard can advise you on how to time the trip.
- Goose Cove (Deer Island): Patience B (Andy Oldman) reports he had a fabulous meal at the Aragosta Restaurant. Reservations are a must. The restaurant has a couple of moorings.
- Burnt Cove, (Deer Isle) (44º10'N68º42'W) –
- Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) report CCA member Roger Block (Amy Jordan) lives nearby and arranged a mooring for us. Convenient to/from Penobscot Bay but the fuel dock attracts lots of lobster boats at 0345.
- (updated 7/4): Green Flash (George & Nancy Marvin) report the main grocery store on the island, Burnt Cove Market, is about two miles west of Billings Marine and a short walk from the anchorage in Burnt Cove.
- (updated 7/4) Stonington: Green Flash (George & Nancy Marvin) report
- Billings Marine Diesel which is their home yard. Billings fuel dock is open this summer from 0800-1700 Mon - Sat. Call fuel dock on ch 16, switch to ch 11. Dockmaster Don is most helpful. They have rental moorings and are most accommodating if you need a mooring for a brief trip into town, The Billings service department is outstanding. Their strength is in mechanical and electrical issue with a highly capable machine shop. The service manager, Greg Sanborn, is highly knowledgeable and innovative, one of the most capable diesel engine experts on the entire Maine coast. Contact Billings at 207-367-2328. Also available is a well-equipped ship’s store which will special order most anything not in stock. They are an outstanding yard and have taken excellent care of Green Flash for us in the three years we have stored there.
- (updated 8/1) Butter Island, PenBay, Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) report: We anchored for lunch at Nubble Beach on the east end of the south shore. Close to the beach at high tide, the anchor skipped a few times then held firmly. We took the dinghy to the sandy beach, hiked on a good trail to the top of the island for a magnificent view from the Watson Bench, then down to Orchard Beach on the NE side of the island, then returned via "Virginia's Trail." A pleasant hour and exercise.
- (updated 8/1) Barred Islands, PenBay, Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) report: Need to pay attention entering but not too challenging; we found the contour lines on Navionics Sonar Chart helpful in staying in deeper water. There are two moorings there; the one we picked up (southern) appeared to be new. One other boat there, on the other mooring. Plenty of room to anchor although it's a bit deep. At low tide, the anchorage is completely surrounded and protected by high ledges; at high tide, it is exposed to the SW. (added 8/15) Kite (Zdenka & Jack Griswold) add: We anchored in about 23' at low between the Barred Islands and Butter Island, just east of and in the lee of the three southernmost 'barred' islets. The spot was surprisingly comfortable and very pretty, protected from the W and WSW. Excellent anchorage in settled conditions. The islands are all privately owned but the northernmost two, Escargot and Bartender, are managed by MITA and accessible to the public. (Note that no pets are allowed ashore.)
- Eggemoggin Reach
- Center Harbor:
- Skye (Glen Porter) reports they have rented moorings from Brooklyn Boat Yard.
- Patience B (Andy Oldman) reports the Brooklin Inn is open for outside dining Wednesday through Saturday and is well worth it.
- (updated 7/4) Wooden Boat School: Wings (JP & Kaki Smith) report: that the school is open for business. Mooring are available. Call the store to inquire 800-273-7447.
- Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) report Brooklin Boat Yard sometimes has rental moorings, $35. Call ahead for availability, 207-359-2236. Good wifi, no other services.
- Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) report the Brooklin Inn restaurant, thebrooklininn.com, 207-517-9460, is open for dinner and is excellent. Highly recommend stopping here for a good meal.
- Camp Island (Merchant’s Row): Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk) reports ample anchoring room, excellent holding.
- (new 7/18) Swan Island/Buckles Harbor Patience B (Andy Oldman) reports:
- He is quite certain that the Cabot family still maintains a couple of moorings just off their dock and cabin with a large stone chimney in York Narrows; Swans Island side. Just East of Swans Island Buckle Harbor. Well protected but strong current on mid flood and ebb You may need to reeve your own pennant in on the large buoys. Pay close attention to your charts when heading out from there Eastward . Nav hazards abound and Bass Harbor ferry track, especially In thick fog.
- Otherwise good anchorage in Buckle Harbor on Swans. Stay center or west of center. You can go up 200-250 yards before it shallows too much. Etoile adds: Be sure to go ashore and walk the trails on Buckle Island. You’ll find “fairy houses” and “the green door.”
- (updated 7/18) Isle Au Haut Kite (Jack & Zdenka Griswold) report there are two honor system mooring off the town landing, first come first serve, $35.
- Frenchboro (Long island):
- Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Nancy Cook, Anne Kolker) report that they found Lunt’s Deli open for business. The owner said many boaters think they are closed and asked us to spread the word that they are open. The food is as good as ever and only 3 of 4 guest moorings were in use the night we visited. Moorings are first come, first served. Call Lunt’s at 207-334-2902 for food and/or moorings. The Maine Trails hiking trails are open.
- (updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) reports the last I knew they were not charging for moorings because the harbor improvements were paid for with federal dollars. I wouldn’t want to anchor out in the outer area indicated on charts – too exposed, and can be roll-y even on a calm night.
- Blue Hill: Bravo (Tom and Jane Babbitt) report
- Town is pretty much open for business with the usual COVID restrictions
- Trade Winds market and Community Pharmacy are open and well stocked. A “bracing” walk uphill. (Note: you can dinghy to the town dock two hours either side of high tide).
- Kollegewidgwok Yacht Club is open with fuel and water but cannot take trash. VHF CH 9
- Biting flies are the worst they can remember
- Mount Desert Isle general information:
- (updated 7/4) The popular free LL Bean busses, well known for circling Mount Desert Island, have restored limited service. Only 6 routes will be operated, seating will be limited, and busses will run less frequently. You can find specific information at http://www.exploreacadia.com/
- (updated 7/18) Etoile used the “Point 2 Point” taxi several times to get around MDI. They are responsive, have nice vehicles, and are on time. 207-669-0220
- (updated 7/18) Bluewater IV (Milt & Judy Baker) reports that reservations are needed to drive up Cadillac Mountain. Check availability and buy a vehicle reservation online at Recreation.gov. A part entrance pass is required as it always has been, but reservations are not required other than to drive up the mountain.
- (updated 7/18) There is a shuttle that runs regularly between Bar Harbor and the Bangor Airport. https://www.barharborbangorshuttle.com/
- Mount Desert Isle ashore: Meridian (Steve Taylor) reports:
- We played 9 holes of golf at both the Causeway Club in Mt. Desert and at the North Haven Golf Club (the latter is walking distance from the harbor/ferry dock). At both places, we rented clubs that had been wiped down, felt totally safe, were welcomed on short notice with a quick advance call, and found good prices and no crowds.
- The hike up Flying Mountain (in Acadia, near SW Harbor) is short with a beautifully maintained trail, great views, and has a nice loop only slightly further to the Valley Cove overlook of Some Sound.
- The freshwater swimming in Echo Lake (Mt Desert) is great; you need a car or a bike to get there, but it's not far from SW Harbor, nor from NE Harbor or Seal Cove.
- Freedom (Peter Stoops/Kate Wilkinson) report that for biking on MDI, i.e. hitting the carriage paths, check out Island Bike Rental. Basic bikes but nice people.
- Sawyer’s Cove (MDI): Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk) reports ample room to anchor. Only one boat there on July 9. Excellent holding.
- Northeast Harbor:
- (updated 7/11) Calypso (Nick Nicholson) reports that Northeast Harbor is about as close to pre-pandemic normal as you get these days. Exceptions are the post office, which requires masks, and the excellent town library up the hill from the harbor.
- The library is open normal hours, but because it serves as the elementary school library and has a full program for children, masks are required of everybody. The excellent library reading room is open, but limited to four people, and limited to an hour of use if others need to use it when your hour is up. Like almost all Maine libraries, it has excellent free wifi.
- A new, almost invisible cell tower went up last year on the hill behind Asticou, and NE Harbor went from being a cellular wasteland for most carriers to a 3-4 bar LTE haven, at least for those with Verizon. Not sure about other carriers.
- The harbor docks and town rental moorings were still surprisingly uncrowded as of July 4, but expect that to change over the next week.
- Diesel fuel and ethanol-free gas available at Clifton dock. Diesel was around $3.35 on July 4, with gasoline a bit over $4.
- The excellent farmer's market is Thursday, and opens 9 AM sharp. Be early for a lot of things. Excellent organic veggies from multiple vendors, meat of all kinds, some baked goods, a mushroom lady, and various other purveyors. And flowers, lots of flowers.
- NE Harbor has a significant community of summer residents, with big houses lining much of the harbor. There are usually several very large motoryachts in town, so between these two groups, it pays to be at the market when it opens. There will be lines at some vendors.
- The excellent FT Brown hardware store has been previously mentioned. Just behind the main store, down the driveway, is a surprisingly well-equipped marine section, with most of the basics.
- It is a 15–20-minute high-speed dinghy ride to SW Harbor's excellent Hamilton Marine branch store, just past the Coast Guard station. Tie up to the lower town dock just past Beals' dock and restaurant. I take my dinghy over there early on a calm morning and can be from a mooring in NE to Hamilton in SW and back in a bit over an hour, running flat out once clear of both harbors. Be alert for traffic.
- The NE town yachtsman's building right next to the old Morris yard has excellent restrooms and showers, plus a laundry room with big commercial machines. It also has wifi. Password available at the harbormaster's dock office.
- The marina/yachtsman's building wifi reaches about halfway across the harbor but can cut in and out as your boat swings, and can be blocked when there are really big yachts on the T-dock. A wifi booster helps with this issue, if you have one.
- Pine Tree Market on Main Street (easy walk from the town dock) is open 9 AM to 8 PM. They are happy to take phone orders 207-276-3335. Visions of Johanna (Bill Strassberg) reports they will deliver to the town dock.
- (updated 7/18) Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Mark & Bev Lenci, Ginny Vought) report that the restaurant “Milk and Honey” is worth the stop. They serve breakfast and lunch. Thursday night is a patio party. The fresh baked pastries are excellent.
- Starlight (Joan and John de Reget) report that they have had a couple of nice meals on the outdoor deck at Nor’Easter, which is a short walk up the hill from the dock next to the motel. The summer locals have discovered it so reservations are recommended.
- Sunflower (Mark & Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook) report “Coastal Energy” (right at the south end of Main Street – 8 Neighborhood Drive) will fill propane cylinders.
- Wischbone (Jeff & Cindy Wisch) report that Northeast Harbor has an extraordinary hardware store, FT Brown Co. on Maine Street that carries just about everything from home goods to marine supplies and even folding electric bicycles. Tom Brown, the owner, is an experienced offshore sailor and extremely helpful and resourceful. Worth a visit. 207 276 3329.
- (updated 7/4) Southwest Harbor:
- Bluewater IV (Milt & Judy Baker) report:
- (updated 7/25) Moorings. Contact harbormaster Jesse Gilley email@example.com 207-244-8713 for moorings close in, or Hinckley at 207-300-2010 and channel 10 VHF for moorings farther out in the harbor. (note: It is unclear whether there is currently a full time harbor master)
- (updated 7/25) Dsyarts Great Harbor Marina https://www.dysartsmarina.com/ is the only true marina in Southwest Harbor. Call marina office manager Jane Peabody 207-244-0117 for information and reservations. Jane tells us that she has no reservations left for August but may be able to accommodate visiting boats in July and September. Dysarts offers a dinghy dock that can be used for a small fee. Stafford Keegan adds “I am informed by the manager that the use of the marina’s dinghy dock is free if you are shopping at adjacent businesses (which include West Marine, Sail Acadia sailmakers, Maine Point embroidery and, perhaps Little Notch Bakery (which makes its bakery products behind the West Marine store). On approach, leave all the marina’s floating docks to starboard, turn right towards the ramp after the final pier, and you'll see the dinghy dock. Diesel and non-ethanol gasoline are available at the fuel dock which is just before the dinghy dock.
- A five-minute walk into town from Dsyarts is McEachern & Hutchins Hardware store https://www.mceachernonline.com/ which offers a surprisingly good selection of marine stuff, including stainless fasteners and metric fasteners.
- (Updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) reports there is a West Marine store 200 yards walk from Great Harbor Marina, and a Hamilton Marine store in Southwest Harbor out by the Coast Guard station on Clark Point Road.
- Eating out
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- Upper Deck restaurant up the hill from Dysart’s marina is closed Wednesday (no reservations)
- Cafe Dry Dock in town does a pretty good job for basic food, open 7 days, 4-9 p.m. (no reservations this year)
- The Claremont Inn off lower Clarke Pt Road about 1/4 mile from the lower town dock/Beal’s Lobster, was sold last September to a restaurant/resort owner in Kennebunkport and has undergone a total renovation; the restaurant (now named Little Fern) always had great water/Acadia views, but the food was sometimes unremarkable; no longer—the views are still great, now the food quality, service and of course prices are very impressive; seems busy with locals/summer dwellers (reservations). Also at the Inn’s dock is a separate smaller and informal bar/restaurant open 12-8 p.m., named Batson Fish Camp (after the brewery the new owner also owns). Both are accessible by dinghy at their floating dock (which actually had a young man there full-time taking lines (and tips)—that’s how much the place has changed). The Inn also has 8 moorings, available we were told overnight only for guests of the Inn, otherwise for 3 hours while having lunch or dinner. Not sure what the gear is.
- For informal non-lobster fare in quieter surroundings, Peter Trout’s Tavern & Inn is open Thursday-Sun, 12-8 p.m. Located in Manset on the south side of the harbor, across the street from the town landing, and about 1/4 mile from Hinckley’s dock (both have dinghy docks). Excellent crab cakes and fried chicken sandwiches.
- On the main drag in town is Little Notch Bakery and Cafe https://www.littlenotchcafe.com/ offering a great selection of artisan bread, pizzas, and other delights. Eat-in or take-out.
- New in town for 2021 is a very good wood-fired pizzeria, Hearth and Harbor https://www.hearthandharbor.net/ 336 Main St, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679 207-244-8247. They do not take reservations and it's popular so there's often a wait. They do not offer take-out pizzas.
- Southwest Harbor’s white tablecloth eatery offering fine fare, with prices to match restaurant is Red Sky Restaurant http://redskyrestaurant.com/ 14 Clark Point Road, 207-244-0476. Open Thursday-Sun, 5-8 p.m. Reservations a must.
- (updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) reports in addition to Red Sky (14 Clark Point Road, with James Lindquist and Elizabeth Geffen in charge there), Sips Restaurant, open 7 days a week (4 Clark Point Road) is also excellent, though note that they don’t take reservations. Jen Worcester is the owner/chef, and note that her husband, Scott Worcester, is the proprietor of by far the best wine and cheese shop anywhere east of Camden. And that is just around the corner from Sips and Red Sky.
- The Common Good Soup Kitchen https://commongoodsoupkitchen.org/ at 19 Clark Point Road was founded in 2009 as a way to bring some warmth to the community by offering free soup, popovers, live music and it’s a popular a place for locals, tourists and yachties to gather, interact, and help each other—it’s open from 7:30 to 11:30 each morning. Run by a dedicated staff of volunteers, the Common Good continues to serve in its role as an essential part of the island community to this day. Donations are welcome from those who eat there. Milt Baker recalls seeing a $1,000 check in the donations jar a summer or two ago.
- (added 8/15) First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- Sawyers Grocery is permanently closed. Sawyers Specialties at 353 Main Street https://www.mdiwine.com/ offers wine, cheeses, gourmet foods, and other specialty items. Open Monday – Saturday, 10 AM to 6 PM
- IGA Southwest Food Market Grocery is a larger store, a small supermarket, but is 1.5 miles from the town dock and Dysart’s. If you want great prime beef custom cut, ask for meat manager Adam.
- Sunflower (Mark & Bev Lenci) points out that if you are eligible to shop in military exchanges, there is a small USCG exchange on the Coast Guard base at the head of the harbor/end of Clark Point Road.
- Somesville (MDI):
- Skye (Glen Porter & Jean Deighan) report the town docks are posted for residents only and are closed to transients. The art gallery and small but most interesting. Somesville historical museum are open and welcoming within COVID guidelines.
- (updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) reports: Usually has a few unoccupied private moorings that can be picked up if you ask around. CCA Elected Governor Molly Barnes has a summer house in Somesville.
- (added 8/15) Somes Sound: First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- Abel’s Boatyard in the NE corner of the Sound has rental moorings, $35/night. Unlike years past, this season the moorings are by reservation only (207-276-5057).
- Abel’s Lobster next door to the boatyard is under new ownership but still good with plenty of outside seating. First come/first served.
- Seal Harbor (MDI): Meridian (Steve Taylor) reports the "Lighthouse" restaurant in Seal Cove (Mt. Desert) was delightful. Safe, socially distanced, careful service, and wonderful chowders, seafood stew and good local beer.
- Great Cranberry Island: Bay Leaf (Stafford Keegin) reports:
- (updated 7/25) The General Store, has taken to making a wide, wide variety of absolutely delicious sandwiches which become available at 11:00 am (but the store is closed on Sundays and otherwise closes at 3:00 (at noon on Saturdays)). Earlier in the morning she provides wonderful breakfast sandwiches. I am informed by one who knows, or claims to know, that the store has also started carrying inexpensive but critically acclaimed largely European wines. Lauren Gray’s Oysters are still available, and the store generally has fresh fish delivered on Fridays. New to the Oyster scene is Scott Bracy (207) 244-460-5358. Scott was, and still is, the previously mentioned good-natured purveyor of lobsters just off the boat. Fresh steaks and chicken are also available at the General Store.
- (updated 7/25) Moorings: see the entry below in the Little Cranberry section.
- In addition to the CCA mooring in the guest mooring list (large white ball with a CCA burgee painted on it) there are two “KEEGIN” moorings which are available if no one is on them.
- Dining is more limited out on the Cranberries, but quite nice. On Great Cranberry there is Hitty’s, a nice outdoors lunch place. It’s about 1/2 a mile up the Main Road from the town dock. There’s a free shuttle service that takes folks up-island and that stops and pick ups from Hitty’s. Out the road farther up island is a Maine Coastal Heritage trail through the woods to the outer shore, and the trailhead is also serviced by the shuttle.
- Little Cranberry Island:
- (updated 7/18) Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev Lenci) report:
- Next to the museum is a small boat building school that welcomes walk in visitors.
- (updated 7/25) Moorings:
- Bay Leaf (Stafford Keegin) The Town of Cranberry Isles (which includes Great Cranberry, Little Cranberry, Sutton, and Baker Islands) maintains 7 guest moorings on a first come-first served basis. The town’s Harbor Master is Norman Sanborn, Jr. ((207) 244-3624) but I understand that Bruce Fernald can step in on Little Cranberry Island if need be ((207) 244-5283). It is not my impression that you need to check with either of them if you pick up one of the town’s guest moorings that is not being used. The moorings are free and one may use them for up to three days. There are three on the outside of the mooring fields at Great Cranberry Island and Little Cranberry. The seventh, which is rarely used, is near the town dock at Sutton Island. They are marked by large white balls each with a blue horizontal stripe and have “Town Guest” painted on them. With winds with any south in them, one is probably more comfortable at Great Cranberry Island; if there’s any north to the wind, Little Cranberry is probably to be favored. There are also private moorings marked for rent with phone numbers on them.
- The Jack Merrill Memorial CCA mooring shown on the downloaded guest mooring file is exactly where the charted waypoint shows it. It is a white ball with the CCA burgee painted on two sides and the letters “JM1”.
- (updated 7/25) Little Cranberry Island, also known as Islesford, has much to offer. Within a quarter of a mile of the town dock, which is the dock that is southerly of the active lobster coop dock in the Little Cranberry Island harbor, one can find Acadia National Park’s Islesford Museum, the non-profit wooden boatbuilding school teaching traditional skills required to build wooden boats: [islesfordboatworks.org], and, on the dock for the Islesford Dock Restaurant, there are two art galleries, a pottery shop, a gift shop as well as the restaurant itself. The Ashley Bryan Pavilion is nearby. While there is very limited space on the Town Dock (it is heavily used by ferries and tour boats), there is quite a bit of dock space for restaurant goers at the end of the restaurant dock.
- (updated 7/18) Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) report The Dock Restaurant (2072447494) is very good about responding to requests for reservations, which may be needed. We enjoyed the oysters, mussels, fish ‘n chips, service and wine.
- Bay Leaf (Stafford Keegin) report: The lobster coop on Little Cranberry (Islesford) has a very nice small retail operation from which one may find lobsters and misc. food items. The dingy space on the Islesford town dock behind the main float is rarely less than jammed, but always seems to accommodate at least one more dingy or skiff.
- Freedom (Peter Stoops/Kate Wilkinson) report the Isleford Dock restaurant is open Tuesday – Sunday 3 to 8 PM. Serving inside and out, food excellent (had fresh tuna - great)
- (updated 7/18) Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev Lenci) report:
- Bar Harbor: Visions of Johanna (Bill Strassberg) reports the Atlantic Brewing Company has a very good BBQ restaurant in Town Hill with outdoor dining called Mainly Meat BBQ. Address is 5 Knox Rd Bar Harbor, ME 04609, phone 207-288-2337 (BEER). It is a car ride from any harbor.
- First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- The town has 8 rental moorings south of the entrance channel (outside the permanent mooring area), white mooring balls, first come/first served, as well as several moorings north of the channel and scattered among the other moored boats (ours was marked FBBC #1) available by advance reservation. All are $35/night. If there is a sea running from SE/S the mooring area (especially the first-come moorings) can range from uncomfortable to untenable when the breakwater to Bald Porcupine Island covers at high tide, particularly in light wind. Protection is available on the hook behind the connecting bar to Bar Island, or further up into Frenchman Bay, probably also better at the docks further inside the harbor.
- The Terrace Grille restaurant (11:30-8:00, no reservations) at the Bar Harbor Inn is great for lunch, and the Reading Room restaurant inside (reservations, Inn guests given preference) is also very good with great views, piano)
- Testa’s in town is not fancy but consistently good for meals
- First Draft IV (Pete & Candi Kolyer) report:
- (updated 7/18) Sorrento Harbor (Frenchman’s Bay). Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev Lenci) reports this is an interesting stop off the beaten path. A rental mooring is available at 44 28.166N 068 11.062W. First come, first serve. Rent from Jim Bean 954-684-7601. The Sorrento Yacht Club also has three guest moorings.
Down East / Passamaquoddy Bay
- Winter Harbor: Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Nancy Cook, Anne Kolker) report:
- (updated 7/18) “The LobStore” A variety of fresh fish, all great! Also has smoked mussels, shrimp, and scallops from the smoke house down the road. 258 Newman St, Winter Harbor, ME 04693 (207) 963-8600
- (updated 7/18) There is a small IGA grocery that is an easy walk from the dinghy dock where all the lobstermen put their dinghies.
- There is a “classic” hardware store that has everything a short walk up the road from the dinghy dock. The owner of the hardware store is a very friendly Bullseye racer and member of WHYC. [Editor’s note: this hardware store had been on TV and in guides as one of the last old time, small town hardware stores. Worth a visit.]
- (updated 7/18) Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) The Winter Harbor Yacht Club is really friendly and helpful. Water on their dock, showers, trash, snack bar. Moorings $35 up to 55’. We got an excellent take-out dinner at The Saltbox; they also have a few inside tables; about 1-mile walk.
- (updated 7/11) Acorn (Rob Beebe) recommends The designated anchoring area just off the yacht club can be terribly roll-y on a calm night, if ocean swells are coming in from the south, with a very gentle northerly breeze, and your boat has an inclination to lie broadside to them in such conditions. I’d beg a mooring from the YC if you can.
- Trafton Island - Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) report pleasant night there, with Pastime (Pieter and Joanna), until about 0500 the next morning when the lobster fleet parades down the bay.
- (updated 7/18) Port Harbor (Poets Harbor): Jack & Diane Myles report: Our moorings are available and up, however our dock is not in this year. Folks are welcome to hike the island and use the bridge to hike farther afield but must use our outhaul to come ashore. We may or may not be here as we brought our boat from Fl. this season and will be doing some cruising ourselves. Sunflower (Mark & Bev Lenci, Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook) report last summer that the CCA moorings there are large white balls, easily identified. The stewards, Jack & Diane Myles, live on John White Island. Be sure to contact them (info in the CCA mooring list). Be sure to get fresh lobster from Bub’s Lobster just around the corner to the north. Bub is an adventure in itself!!
- Stewart’s Grocery is a full-service convenience store. 207-497-2921 Their Facebook page has photos of what they carry. Sweet Dreams (Maggie Salter/Alan Hickey) report the store is a 2-to-3-mile walk. Google shows it only about 2/10 mile from the harbor.
- (added 8/15) Scattergood (Scott & Pamela Teas) report It was our first time to venture into Jonesport. We approached from the east and anchored east of the bridge to Great Wass. Found a rip rap retained edging next to a private lawn just west of the Coast Guard Station to access land. Walking west we discovered a well-stocked Manaford’s, not Hannaford’s, supermarket less than a mile from where we pulled the dingy. On the way, just beyond our landing spot, east of the church, one will find The Early Bird, a permanent food truck that has yummy fried fish sandwiches and fresh baked goods and very friendly local operators.
- (added 8/15) The Great Waas Scattergood (Scott & Pamela Teas) recommend the 5 mile hiking loop on Great Wass. One of the most beautiful among the Bold Coast. Landing is most easily accessed from Long Cove (east side of Great Wass). We accessed it by dingy while anchored in Cows Yard and Mistake Harbor but Long Cove works for smaller yachts. One must make provisions for securing dingy with 16-foot tidal range.
- (new 7/25) Mistake Island Harbor: Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) reporting: a beautiful place! Excellent holding at the 10-foot spot on the chart. We had to share it with one other boat. Easiest to go ashore at the boat ramp at high tide. Reported to be the foggiest place in the US - we had none.
- (new 7/25) Roque Island Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev (Lenci) and Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk, Ann Noble Kiley) stopped here. This is of course the quintessential cruising destination down east. Both boats found that there were no other boats at anchor when they stopped. Clearly there are fewer cruisers than last year. A small fleet could anchor at Great Beach enjoy the gorgeous white sand beach. Golden Eye points out that there is a difference between “Bunker Hole” and “Bunker Cove”. Bunker COVE is a super protected anchorage at the Cove’s mouth. You may need a stern line/anchor. It can fit one boat. Attempting Bunker HOLE is not advised.
- Bucks Harbor (Machias Bay): Sunflower (Mark/Bev Lenci, Nancy Cook, Anne Kolker) report the harbor master directed them to a guest mooring near the entrance to the harbor on the south side. It is an enormous yellow plastic buoy like those seen marking aquaculture. It has a very heavy-duty pennant. The buoy has a white light and is labeled “guest” in large letters. There is no fee.
- (new 7/25): Cross Island Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk and Ann Noble-Kiley) reporting: CAUTION The “uncharted large rock”, actually a ledge, shown on only some versions of Navionics at 44°37.194 67°17.351 is huge, dries to 3’ and is just below the surface at mid tide and higher!
- (updated 7/25) Cutler: Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev (Lenci) made two stops here and Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk, Ann Noble Kiley) stopped here once. Although there are no moorings to rent, there are possibilities. Golden Eye got a mooring by calling the phone number painted on an unused mooring. Etoile was offered a mooring by a sailing couple, Kurt and Carol Harrington, that summer in Cutler. The harbor is well protected with lots of room to anchor boats. The holding ground is good. Fresh lobster are available from Deano’s on the main wharf (closes at 3:30 PM sharp)
- (updated 7/25) Eastport: Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev Lenci) spent another three days this summer Eastport and report:
- The tidal currents in Grand Manan channel and the Eastport area can strong – up to 3 knots. Time your passages accordingly.
- The city dock on the north side and outside the inner basin (where the USCG building is located) has first come, first serve room for transients. The harbor master is Richard Clark available at 207-214-0639. He was very helpful. Water is available on the dock if you have up to 150 feet of hose. Shore power is available if you are tied up in one of the inner positions on the floating dock next to the large wall for the inner basin. You need a very long shore power cable to reach up onto the seawall from the floating town dock. The floating docks are new and very sturdy. If the cruise ship or other large vessel is in port you cannot get a sailboat into this area. Best to call ahead.
- In general, we found the few restaurants operating on significantly reduced schedules. The websites were often wrong. The scheduled are varied. Check ahead.
- There is a fairly well stocked IGA supermarket that is about a 10-minute walk from the town dock.
- The Chowder House is permanently closed but the same owner, Bob DelPapa, runs the “Waco Restaurant”. Bob says he still rents the mooring and dock space. He says if you call in advance, he will “find you a place” either on his dock or mooring, or on someone else’s. 207-266-9802
- The Etoile crew highly recommends taking the ferry (a lobster boat) to Lubec. It is a fun ride with narration. The ferry runs Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. If you want to go on another day, call ferry boat captain Cecil (207-214-0167) and he will arrange for himself or someone else to take you to Lubec in their boat. Lubec is “quiet” compared to Eastport but worth the visit. The sardine smoke house museum proved to be very interesting. Walk up the hill to see the many large homes from Lubec sardine canning hay days that are nicely maintained. Visit the Lubec Brewing Company. You can taste their beers, pick some, and sit in their outside beer garden. A great ice cream stand is nearby. There is a wicked bad tidal current so the ferry is a better choice than going with your deep keel sailboat.
- Another friendly person that can be very helpful is the harbor pilot, Bob Peacock. He can you give you advice about anything in the area. His home phone is 207-853-6122.
- Etoile had a line foul her prop on the way to Federal Harbor. Scotty McNichol was recommended as a diver by the harbor master and the harbor pilot. 207-214-9560. Scotty arrived at Etoile in Federal Harbor only 1 hour after being called. He was quick and inexpensive. Etoile highly recommends him if you should need a diver.
- (updated 7/25) Federal Harbor: Both Etoile (Anne Kolker, Nancy Cook, Ginny Vought, Mark & Bev Lenci) and Golden Eye (Ernie Godshalk, Ann Noble Kiley) visited this lovely small, quiet, virtually uninhabited anchorage. Both boats highly recommend a visit here. The holding ground is good mud/clay. It is a beautiful, serene area for a dinghy expedition or kayaking. It’s in the Maine sailing guide. It is also a great hurricane hole with good holding ground. Golden Eye says “A magical place. After leaving the "metropolis" of Eastport, one enters, on a flood current approaching 3 knots, a remote area without boats, houses, docks or any sign of civilization except fish farms. Even the lobster pots disappear. The anchorage is surrounded by high, wooded islands. We were the only life within miles. We anchored in 11' at low, 35' at high, good holding but a lot of kelp on the anchor in the morning. A peaceful night.”
- Farmer’s Markets in Maine: http://www.mainefarmersmarkets.org/
- All editions of this newsletter online: https://cruisingclub.org/bos/gmp/cruisemaine
- Latest details on travel restrictions: https://www.mainetourism.com/travel-resources-covid-19/
- Maine State Government COVID Response information: https://www.maine.gov/covid19/
- CCA boat tracker: https://cruisingclub.org/mo/boats-track
- CCA custom Maine cruising boat tracker: https://cruisingclub.org/mo/boatchart/maine
- If you want to upload the CCA Moorings into your chartplotter or Navionics app on your phone or iPad, click this link to get the gpx file directly: https://cruisingclub.org/mo/moorings/gpx
- “A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast”, Sixth Edition, 2017 by Curtis Rindlaub and Hank & Jan Taft: www.mainecoastguide.com
- The Ultimate Summer 2021 Maine Vacation Guide | Down East Magazine https://downeast.com/travel-outdoors/the-ultimate-summer-2021-maine-vacation-guide/
- Tides: An interesting tide presentation on tide-forecast.com, which includes how much tidal change is left to occur
Things to give away or trade:
- Etoile (Anne Kolker) has a spare, fully functional dinghy air pump. Rendezvous with Etoile in some manner to pick it up.